WHEN a born scientist and biology graduate steps into the shoes of a fashion designer, we can only speculate the outcome. And perhaps slightly hold our breaths because what if it turns out the clothes have silky cocoons sewed on the shoulders, giant eyes of flies embroidered on the model’s behind or tiny wings stitched on their backs?
That would probably result into a situation similar to the ever so dramatic scene of The Lion King, when Mufasa slips down the rocks and falls into the clutter of running buffalos, only that in this case the running buffalos would be the fashion legion, crushing an innocent passer-by as they’re making their way out of Somerset House. In other words, a scene one would prefer to avoid.
After graduating from the Fashion Design course at ESIMode with a final show that was inspired by pin-up Bettie Page, Jayet landed an internship with the one and only Alexander McQueen.
But we can contently let go of our fears, as French designer Florian Jayet’s academic background in biology proves to be nothing less than an inspiration to create something so far unseen. Jayet does tend to take his ideas from the naturalistic things around him, but instead of glorifying the crawling creepies of the outdoors, he translates the beauty of an insect into a must-have garment. Stirred in with his ‘nature’s calling’ type of style is his passion for the sciences, which – fashion wise – results in a futuristic touch to the collection.
His first collection, Spring/Summer 2011 was presented at London Fashion Week and was met with rave reviews. Back then, Jayet’s general idea was to use garments as a body protecting armour, much like the hard, exoskeleton shell of insects. The influence of futuristic concepts of Paco Rabanne and Thierry Mugler evinced in the shape of the skeletal outlines, sculpted cone shoulders and metallic colours.
Florian Jayet’s passion for fashion goes back further and deeper than his love for the sciences. It was his grandmother, a tailor and pattern cutter, who triggered Jayet’s interest in the textiles industry at a young age. Nonetheless, it took nearly two decades and two degrees (one in Biology and the other one in Art History) for the designer manifesting inside of him to come out and say hello.
After graduating from the Fashion Design course at ESIMode with a final show that was inspired by pin-up Bettie Page, Jayet landed an internship with the one and only Alexander McQueen. McQueen’s eclectic designs complemented Jayet’s own aesthetic, visions and ideas.
Flash forward a couple of years and we find Jayet at London Fashion Week for S/S 2012. It was his third season running, and it’s clear that his inspiration is still primarily found in the natural world around him – although for the upcoming season the collection hovers towards the bohemian hippie meets retro side. While the body armour theme radiates once again through the collection, we see many crispy white dresses that are just crying out to be worn. The white is at times traded in for fresh orange and blue flowery prints, or for a flash of dirty pink.
Skirts, trousers, dresses and jumpsuits, each boasting a perfect cut that breathes simplicity and femininity. It has everything a perfect spring collection should have in the eyes of the cosmopolitan woman: understated elegance, effortless chic and a feminine embrace.
All images from A/W '11 collection.
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