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Hot Tables: Steak & Burgers

Something to put your mustard on – from the best £8 burger to an £85 Wagyu steak

Published on December 13th 2011.

Hot Tables: Steak & Burgers

ABERDEEN Angus and Hereford Blacks should be running for the hills as London restaurateurs get right back to basics with steak, steak and more steak – plus some ground up burgers. It is like chefs have discovered the Dukan diet. Protein boys, that is PRO-TEEEEEN. My grill is bigger than your grill. That is one thing that makes steaks better in a restaurant than at home – the heat of their grills which your average domestic Bosch cannot manage. It started in Shoreditch with Hawksmoor, then followed Goodman’s in Maddox Street, Mayfair – both of whom have now fattened up into little chainy waynies.  Now Mayfair is sizzling. Here is a Hot Plates selection as to where the chips are going down.

11 Old Jewry, EC2R 8DU
0207 600 8220

Started out slowly to mixed reviews in Maddox Street,  but the City venue, the second, and now a third open in Canary Wharf have found their metier – selling New York-style grain-fed beef cooked over charcoal to bankers. Good, if expensive, wine list to match. Has a rep as expensive but the prices are really more wacky – spinach is £4.50, but lobster chowder is £7. Steaks from £6.50 for 100g. Also branches now in Zurich and Moscow…

Wolfgang Puck's Cut
45 Park Lane, W1K 1PN
020 7493 4545

America’s darling Mr Spago finally makes it across the pond first for a pop up in Harrods and now at the Dorchester boutique (he is also known for doing pasta at Disneyland). He is not just about steak of course, but there is 6oz New York steak of Australian Wagyu at £70 and the 14oz Kansas Rib Eye aged for 35 days for £36. Or you can have a taster of three kinds of steak for £48.

Rib Room
Jumeirah Carlton Tower
Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PY
0207 235 1234

The Jumeirah picks up all those international travel awards as a swankier hotel than... well, than another Jumeirah. It is Arabic for beach. The old Carlton Tower has been made over and given a luxury cashmere yashmak. The rib room has been given to former Northcote Lodge Lancashire starlet Ian Rudge who dies a daily menu at an affordable £19, a roast of the day and… roast rib of Casterbridge beef with Yorkshire pudding (£42).


Hawksmoor Guildhall
10 Basinghall Street, EC2V 5BQ
0207 397 8120

After Mexican and pubs, the Hawksmoor team moves on from Shoreditch to Seven Dials to the Guildhall. There is breakfast too… at £35 for two. You know what you get – good wines, good cocktails, good steaks and a big bill. Steaks, Longhorns from North Yorkshire, again from Ginger Pig, start at £7 for 100g. Giles Coren in the Times said these were “faultless”.

Honest Burgers
Unit 12, Brixton Village, SW9 8PR
0207 733 7963

Whether it has stilton, red Leicester, chilli or mature cheddar, south London’s best burgers – and best value are by general accord found here. It is all bare wooden tables and bare light bulbs. Made from 35-day aged beef from the Ginger Pig and usually under £8. There is even a gluten-free bun for those concerned about such things, which shows they are concerned.


92 – 94 Farringdon Road, EC1R 3EA
0207 837 5093

This may not endear itself to north London patrons of the original Quality Chop House but Fire and Stone owners are trying to get a concept running by rolling up their burgers into meatballs and dropping them on to pasta or risotto or slipping them into brioche.

34 Grosvenor Square, W1K 2HD
0203 350 3434 One hundred-seater steakhouse from the Ivy and Caprice stable designed by hotter-than-hot Martin Brudnizki (who also did Hix and Les Deux Salons) near Scott’s, which he also designed. Their grill has been imported – along with some beef – from Argentina but there is also Australian Wagyu, and US Prime Creekstone Farm. The hamburger is £16.50 - £25.75; the Wagyu steak £75 - £85.


Meat Liquor
74 Welbeck Street, W1G 0BA
0207 224 4239
Former pop-up finds a home on Marylebone. Fay Maschler loved it. Time Out said the burgers were “sloppy, meaty, tangy, cheesy, spicy, perfect.”. It is all very Lower East Side New York, alternative. Queuing is mandatory à la Hard Rock Café.

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