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The Next Generation

Miranda York scours the London food scene for the next generation of gastropreneurs

Written by . Published on December 26th 2011.

The Next Generation

FROM the radical newcomers to the old-school rule breakers, who are the true pioneers of British cuisine?


Who: Lily Jones

What: Owner of Lily Vanilli bakery and co-founder of the YBFs (Young British Foodies)

Why: Already infamous for her delectable cupcakes, Lily Jones recently set up the YBF awards along with food writer Chloe Scott and MD of Taste Amy Thorne to celebrate those breaking the mould in the food industry. With the judging panel including the likes of Bompas & Parr, Yianni Papoutsis and Nuno Mendes, the awards are set to discover and inspire the gastropreneurs of the future.

What they say: "With her fancy and tasty cakes, her status as a rock ‘n’ roll baker is cemented." – Dazed and Confused

What Lily says: “The YBFs is about creating a food revolution to celebrate and appreciate the unsung foodie heroes in Britain. We encourage everyone who likes food to recognise themselves as a YBF.”


Who: Tom Adams and Jamie Berger

What: Owners of BBQ sensation Pitt Cue Co

Why: After taking the Southbank by storm with their BBQ pork and infamous ‘Pickle Back’ (a shot of whiskey chased by a shot of pickle brine), chef Tom Adams and entrepreneur Jamie Berger are set to swap their van for a restaurant early next year. It’s all hush-hush for now but look out for queues around the block and the wafts of BBQ ribs and pulled pork.

What they say: “Tom Adams and Jamie Berger seem almost insanely committed to bringing the taste of the States to us Londoners.” – Marina O’Loughlin 

What Tom and Jamie say: “Something cool coming soon!”


Who: Raef Hodgson

What: Owner of Gergovie Wines and 40 Maltby Street

Why: His parents are the renowned cheese expert Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy, and Anita Le Roy, who heads up Monmouth Coffee. Following in their foodie footsteps, Raef recently opened a natural wine bar under a railway arch on Maltby Street, Bermondsey (which also provides storage for his wine business, Gergovie). He is one of the pioneers of the current natural wine movement.

What they say: “There's a real charm to sitting in a railway arch on a Southwark back street, trains trundling overhead… while enjoying great wine and food. 40 Maltby Street is not a West End dining experience – and is all the better for it.” – Euan Ferguson

What Raef says: “Our wines are made with very little intervention, and low or zero sulphates. They are really vinous, almost having an association with cider: you can taste the minerality and acidic quality of the fruit.”


Who: Michael Quinn, Adam Bernstein and Dominic Rose

What: Owners of What The Dickens?

Why: Initially establishing themselves with a repertoire of iconic British dishes, from devilled kidneys to kedgeree, What The Dickens? seeks to resurrect, revive and revitalise time-honoured recipes. Currently found on the up-and-coming Chatsworth Road Market in East London, their traditional fare is matched by their eccentric style and vintage attire.

What they say: “What The Dickens – three earnest young men in Victorian garb who hand grind coffee and serve up devilled kidneys and kedgeree (without a stich of irony).” – Time Out

What Michael, Adam and Dominic say: “Seeking to revive traditional dishes, atmosphere and panache, we provide street food and bespoke catering for any occasion. We're interested in neglected traditional recipes and connecting with the whole food process from beginning to end.”


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