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The Supper Club Comes To Blacks

Jamie Leader reveals Ms Marmite's elusive new dining experience.

Written by . Published on June 20th 2011.


The Supper Club Comes To Blacks

GOOD food is good food, no matter where it is served – be it an exclusive establishment in Soho or the dining room of a flat in Kilburn. On the 26th June, both of these disparate elements come together in a somewhat unlikely alliance, between thespian favourite and members club, Blacks, and the all inclusive guerrilla dining philosophy of the ‘Supper Club’, embodied by author and domestic extraordinaire, Kerstin Rodgers.

The marriage is the stuff of the discerning foodie’s dreams – a one off partnership between the knowledgeable anarchic food pioneer and the respected establishment.

As it happens, this partnership is decidedly private on both sides, yet it is open to the public if booked at the appropriate time. The marriage is the stuff of the discerning foodie’s dreams – a one off partnership between the knowledgeable anarchic food pioneer and the respected establishment. Blacks has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals since the mid 18th century, and is as establishment-orientated as a Soho club can be. Soho is, after all, a rather unconventional area, so this is partnership is perhaps not so quirky as the uninitiated sceptic may initially assume. It is rather, a homely alliance between like-minded people of renegade persuasion.  Kerstin Rodger’s alias, Ms Marmite, cites her usual formula for success, as quoted from her engrossing book,as: “an (Greek for without) archy (a ruler). Not chaos.” This roughly translates in dining terms as her cooking up a storm; she serves a set menu in her own kitchen to the delight of paying customers, who are comfortably seated in her own front room.

BlacksBlacks

 

At Blacks, Ms Marmite will be deployed as the anchor from which the established and formal restaurant will rely on to steady itself, run a tight ship and heartily serve it’s celebrity clientele. Original culinary chops amidst the eloquent surroundings of one of London’s existing Georgian townhouses, make for an illustrious occasion, and, when combined with fine, fresh ingredients and a modern twist on traditional recipes, this evening sets the standard for modern dining.

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