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Wrights Oyster bar and Porter House - review

Shucking with tradition

Written by . Published on July 6th 2012.

Wrights Oyster bar and Porter House - review

Wrights is a produce restaurant – prime shellfish which they also supply to many a competitor outlet especially for oysters, rather sharper than others. There is always a goodly choice from around the islands - Jersey last week, Scotland of course, natives though have to wait for autumn.

Helford River which has been trawling oysters since before Roman times

The effort goes into opening the oysters, dressing the crab in clean lines – green for spring onions, white of egg, yellow for yolk - and as you can see in the picture, squirling the mayonnaise...

WrightcrabThe Wright stuff - the dressed crab, done with a twirl


But they also do a mean fish soup with all the trimmings, the sludgey brown variation (French really) with Gruyere and rouille....

WrightsoupThe Wright soup - fish and trimmings


They can grill and broil other fish, pot up the shellfish and turn out a traditonal school boy pudding.

Oyster-Porter-IntroThe barAnd it looks the part off Borough market, exposed brickwork, bar stools, raised tables and even a few tables outside and trundles on regardless of the open heart surgery that is taking place on the market itself from CrossRail.

It is not original in the sense that Sweetings - first opened 1889 - or Rules - which claims to be 200 years old -  really were oyster bars but the brothers have taken the rights on Prince Charles’s concession on the Helford River which has been trawling oysters since before Roman times so they are not without archeological pedigree.

A second outlet is a bit more swishly tiled and spacious on three levels in Soho and they have the pub at Fowey itself.

Pacific oysters can be eaten through the year – ie in months with no r – something the French have never had any problem with.  Rock had its inaugural festival in June, Whitstable is the last weekend of July – traditionally probably when the men started to turn their hands to the oyster beds readying them for the London markets which would open in September – while Falmouth this years sticks with the traditional and is not until October.

Service 3
Atmosphere 4
Cooking 5

Wright1Wright outsideTotal 12

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